Rolex has used the Explorer name since 1953, the year Rolex watches accompanied expeditions to Everest, and the watch has stayed true to that brief: legible, tough, understated. Then in 1971 Rolex added the Explorer II, a larger watch with a 24-hour hand designed for people who could lose track of day and night, such as cave explorers and polar researchers.
They share a name, but they are different watches for different people. This guide covers both.
Explorer or Explorer II: what is the difference?
| Explorer | Explorer II | |
|---|---|---|
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds | Adds date and 24-hour hand |
| Bezel | Smooth steel | Fixed steel 24-hour bezel |
| Signature | Black dial with 3, 6 and 9 numerals | Orange 24-hour hand; white “Polar” or black dial |
| Sizes | 36, 39 and 40 mm | 40 mm (16570), 42 mm (216570, 226570) |
| Character | Understated, versatile | Sportier, more instrument-like |
If you want the most discreet Rolex sports watch, the Explorer is it. If you want a second time zone, a date and more wrist presence, the Explorer II fits better.
Which Explorer generation should you buy?
The 14270 (about 1989 to 2001) is the classic modern Explorer: 36 mm, calibre 3000, a slim case, and applied numerals with tritium lume on earlier examples. It is light and elegant.
The 114270 (about 2001 to 2010) continued the 36 mm format with the calibre 3130 and solid end links.
The 214270 (2010 to 2021) grew to 39 mm with the calibre 3132. Early examples had shorter hands that did not reach the minute track; a later update lengthened them and added luminous numerals, and many buyers prefer that “Mark II” dial.
The 124270 (from 2021) returned to 36 mm with the calibre 3230, delighting fans of the original proportions. A two-tone version, the 124273, followed.
The 224270 (from 2023) is the 40 mm Explorer for larger wrists.
Which Explorer II should you buy?
The 16570 (about 1989 to 2011) is the value favorite: 40 mm, calibre 3185 then 3186, with either a black dial or the white dial collectors call “Polar”. It is one of the most affordable Rolex sports watches with a GMT function. Browse every 16570 we have in stock.
The 216570 (2011 to 2021) grew to 42 mm, brought back a large orange 24-hour hand inspired by the original 1655, and used the calibre 3187 with a blue Parachrom hairspring.
The 226570 (from 2021) keeps the 42 mm size with a refined case and the calibre 3285, the same movement family as the current GMT-Master II.
How does the Explorer II GMT function work?
On the 16570 and later references, the hour hand can be set independently, just like on a GMT-Master II. The orange 24-hour hand keeps home time against the fixed 24-hour bezel. Because the bezel does not rotate, you can track two time zones rather than three, but the watch is simpler and cleaner. For comparison with the rotating-bezel GMT, see our GMT-Master II buying guide.
What should you check on a pre-owned Explorer?
- Dial details. Early 214270 dials with short hands are worth noting; so is lume type on the 14270 and 16570, where tritium and later luminova dials each have fans.
- Case polish. The smooth, simple case shows polishing clearly around the lugs.
- Bezel on the Explorer II. The fixed steel bezel marks easily; deep dents are hard to remove.
- Bracelet stretch. Older Explorers had lighter bracelets with hollow end links.
- Movement service. As always, a recent service is worth paying a little more for.
How do the Explorers wear?
The 36 mm Explorer is one of the most comfortable Rolex watches ever made: slim, light and easy to wear with anything. The 39 and 40 mm Explorers suit larger wrists and look more contemporary. The Explorer II is thicker and more substantial, especially at 42 mm, but its steel bezel keeps it from feeling flashy. If you are between sizes, our Rolex size guide will help.
Which Explorer details matter to collectors?
A few details separate an ordinary example from a special one, and they are worth knowing even if you are buying to wear:
- Tritium dials. Explorers and Explorer IIs made until the late 1990s used tritium lume, marked “Swiss T < 25” at the bottom of the dial. The lume ages to a cream or pumpkin tone that many collectors love. Later “Swiss Made” dials use luminova or Rolex’s Chromalight.
- The 16570 Polar dial. Early white dials can show subtle color and printing variations; mid-production examples changed lume and hands. None of this is a problem, but it helps to know which one you are looking at.
- Solid end links and clasp type. Later bracelets are heavier and feel more premium.
- Original, unpolished cases. The Explorer’s simple case makes polishing obvious, and crisp lugs are valued.
- Papers dated to the watch. As with all Rolex sports models, a matching warranty card adds confidence and resale value.
Is the Explorer II a practical travel watch?
Yes, and an underrated one. The independently set hour hand makes it quick to adjust after a flight, the 24-hour hand keeps home time, and the date follows local time. It lacks the GMT-Master II’s rotating bezel, so it tracks two time zones rather than three, but most travelers only need two. Its fixed steel bezel is also tougher in daily wear than a ceramic insert, which can chip if knocked.
How much does a pre-owned Explorer cost?
The Explorer and Explorer II are among the more accessible Rolex sports models. Roughly: older 36 mm Explorers and 16570 Explorer IIs are the most affordable; 214270 and 216570 models sit in the middle; the current 124270, 224270 and 226570 at the top. Polar dials often carry a small premium over black. See our live prices below, and every example we have on the Explorer and Explorer II pages.
Who is the Explorer for?
The Explorer is for people who want a Rolex that does not announce itself. It has the build quality of a Submariner without the dive bezel, and it pairs as easily with a suit as with hiking boots. The Explorer II is for people who like instruments: the 24-hour scale, the orange hand and the white Polar dial give it a technical charm that many owners find they love more over time.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Rolex Explorer a good first Rolex?
Yes. It is one of the most versatile and discreet Rolex models, tough enough for any activity and simple enough to wear every day. The 36 mm 124270 and the older 14270 are especially comfortable.
What is a Polar Explorer?
“Polar” is the collectors’ nickname for an Explorer II with a white dial, most often the 16570. The white dial with black-bordered markers is easy to read and gives the watch a distinctive, technical look.
Does the Explorer have a date?
The Explorer does not; it shows hours, minutes and seconds only. The Explorer II has a date at three o’clock and a 24-hour hand.
Which is better, the 36 mm or 39 mm Explorer?
It depends on your wrist and taste. The 36 mm models are closest to the original design and wear smaller and slimmer. The 39 and 40 mm models suit larger wrists and look more modern.
